Battle of the Dishes: Latkes From Second Avenue Deli and Sarge's
Thursday, Dec. 17 2009
Among the many restaurants, delis, and hole-in-the-walls that traffic in
latkes are the Second Avenue Deli and Sarge's. These two shrines to Semitic
excess stand within a mere three and a half blocks of each other in Murray
Hill. The massive latkes at both restaurants are served in plates of three,
presented less as a meal than as a challenge to both common sense and the
nutrition establishment's efforts over the last 40 years. But which is the
better latke?
The Second Avenue Deli's latkes cost $13.95, and come with a shallow bowl of applesauce. Given that latke ingredients -- typically potatoes, oil, egg, seasonings, and a bit of matzoh meal -- are some of the cheapest known to the restaurant industry, the price is difficult to swallow. And so are the latkes, which are the size of 45s. Although they were a delectable golden brown, their crust was slightly soggy instead of crusty, like the frying oil hadn't been hot enough. The latke's insides were uniformly gummy, like something that came from a box, instead of a potato: one taster observed that "it's like eating salty piano felt." The applesauce might have helped if it was accompanied by sour cream, but it wasn't. Serving a latke without sour cream is like serving soup without a spoon, and the omission added insult to gastrointestinal injury.
Sarge's latkes, which were about the same size as Second Avenue's, did come with a generous bowl sour cream, as well as applesauce. At $9.95, they were also four dollars cheaper than Second Avenue's. But most importantly, their golden-brown crust was matched by an audible and satisfying crunch. Their interior, which contained bits of carrot, was soft and properly seasoned; accompanied by the sour cream and applesauce, every forkful boasted the holy sweet-salty-fatty trinity that a good latke should. In Murray Hill, Sarge's reigns supreme in both quality and value over its closest competitor.
Sarge's is going to Turin
When you think of the great foods of Italy, pastrami, corned beef, and brisket hardly ever come to mind. But that could change, thanks to The French Culinary Institute and Slow Food USA. Eleven culinary luminaries gathered in the kitchens of The FCI October 1 for a tasting of New York deli meats. All winning meats are slated to go to Turin, Italy this October, to The Salone del Gusto, one of the world's most important food and wine events. Each anonymous platter was from one of five venerable New York delis: Stage Deli, Katz's Delicatessen; Sarge's Deli; Carnegie Deli or 2nd Avenue Deli. Top-rated meats were as follows: for brisket, the 2nd Avenue Deli. For corned beef, Sarge's. And for pastrami, Stage Deli tied with Carnegie Deli....
Sarge's Deli
548 3rd Ave, New York 10016 • 212-679-0442
Description: MURRAY HILL - TUDOR CITY. At any time of the day or night, satisfy your deli
craving at Sarge's. Open 24 hours, seven days a week, this delicatessen
is like no other and serves beer and alcoholic drinks.
Sarge's is home of the “Deli Wellington” which is a puff pastry,
with pastrami, corned beef, potatoes, onions, and spices. Moderately
priced deli sandwiches are piled high with a variety of kosher meats and
served alongside classic deli staples. Sarge's will even ship his kosher
meats to Canada and anywhere in the USA.
Sarge's Deli
548 Third Ave.
New York, NY 10016
212-679-0442
Editorial Review
Around-the-clock deli that's worth visiting anytime.
The Scene
There are no rules at Sarge's, which is open 24/7 and serves
every kind of food, from potato latkes to chicken-and-ribs, to
every kind of customer, from businesspeople at breakfast to
recuperating club kids at 4am. It looks like an old-style Jewish
deli, with cheeky waitresses to match, but it's really a
crossroads of all of New York City.
The Food
Sarge's is rarely mentioned in the same breath as the top
New York delis, but for the most part its offerings are
first-rate. Like any restaurant that attempts to cook
everything, however, there are hits and misses. The barbecue
ribs are predictably poor, but the fried jumbo shrimp are
surprisingly good. The best dishes, however, are the sandwiches,
like the triple-decker fantasy of corned beef, tongue, and
chopped liver, and the traditional deli entrees, like beef
flanken simmered in mushroom-barley soup. Breakfast foods,
especially omelettes, are good as well.—Steven Shaw
Anytime
It's open 24/7, but Sarge's attracts its most interesting and diverse
crowd after midnight.
Sarge's Deli
Where corned beef is king.
In 1964, police sergeant Abe Katz opened this eatery so people could
find a decent late-night meal -- a rarity at that time. Still true to
his credo today, Sarge's remains a family-run business and is a
venerable Midtown East institution -- in part due to its old-school
decor, with Tiffany-style stained glass chandeliers and light fixtures,
shiny burgundy vinyl booths, and faux-wood Formica walls adorned with
photographs and newspaper clippings. But the main reason diners still
flock here is the food: It's traditional Jewish-deli and it's plentiful.
Offerings include the Smoked Fish Supreme (Nova Scotia lox, sturgeon,
whitefish and sable, lettuce, tomato and onion, served with two bagels
and cream cheese), the Delicatessen Omelet (assorted deli meats lightly
grilled pancake-style), the Twin Double (any two meat sandwiches on twin
rolls with potato salad or cole slaw) and Sarge's Favorite (beef brisket
on a potato pancake with gravy and applesauce.) Service is generally
fast and friendly, but if you're pressed for time, get your order to go
at the take-out counter (keep in mind, there is an additional charge for
orders served in aluminum or microwaveable containers), and remember to
throw in some noodle kugel, bread pudding or rugula for dessert. --
Amanda Dorato (Photo: Noah Kalina)
Sarge's Delicatessen
548 Third Ave.
(Midtown East/Murray Hill)
near 36th St.
212-679-0442
If you feel like stepping into a time warp, take a booth in this vestige of New York in the sixties and let deli doyenne Jean Russo (a 28-year veteran, pictured) bring fabulous chicken in the pot. The house-cured pastrami--an old family recipe from the day Sarge's was founded by a retired city cop--is warm and fatty and full of flavor. Splendid corned beef, too.
Ask Gael
Sarge's Delicatessen is definitely off my beat. It's been there
since 1964, but I have not. Curiosity piqued by the above gripe from a
deli-maven reader, I step into a time warp, take a booth (young Abbie Hoffman
smiles down at me), and let deli doyenne Jean Russo (a 28-year veteran) bring
fabulous chicken in the pot. Our massive order doesn't faze her. “Don't
worry, I'll bring doggie bags,” she offers. I've forgotten how good sour
pickles can be and love that house-cured pastrami—warm and fatty and full of
flavor. (An old family recipe from the day Sarge's was founded by a retired
city cop.) My guest and I split a corned beef–tongue combo—splendid corned
beef, wussy tongue. And I like more oomph in my Russian dressing. Carried away
by the fat of it all, my pal longs for the chocolate cream pie of yesteryear.
“Why not?” says Jean. How Thiebaud it looks. And yet . . . so real.
Sarge's Deli
tel: 212-679-0442, (877) SARGES1
fax: 212-545-1540
548 3rd Ave, btwn 36th & 37th 10016
Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year
Amex, Mastercard, Visa, Discover and offers Corporate Charge accounts accepted.
SARGE's offers the best value and generous portions of fantastic Corned Beef, Pastrami, and Turkey Sandwiches and other New York style delights, such as stuffed cabbage, chopped liver, pirogies, noodle kugel, chicken soup, matzo balls, latkes, kreplach and knishes.
Sarge's Deli
548 3rd Avenue (bet. 36th & 37th Sts.) Murray Hill
212-679-0442
Founded by retired police sergeant Abe Katz, Sarge's deli has been dishing out tasty sandwiches since 1964. The homey atmosphere is accented by numerous tiffany lamps. Open 24 Hours.
Sarge's Deli, just south of the United Nations on Third Avenue serves delectable sandwiches and other deli items at some of the best prices you'll find in Manhattan, and the service is excellent!
best hash - SARGE'S
No, not that kind of hash! Corned beef hash, and not from a can, either. At SARGE'S, a 40-year-old establishment founded by a beat cop, the hash is made from scratch with tiny nubs of potato and slivers of house-cured corned beef. Fried until crisp, the hash is best surmounted by the optional trio of poached eggs. You won't find a better brunch. -Robert Sietsema
TOP FIVE
Latkes
Of course, you can find them at Zabar's and the 2nd Avenue Deli.
But miraculous-tasting versions of Hanukkah's traditional potato pancakes appear
all over town. Atkins devotees, avert your eyes.
By Rebecca Marx.
#1. Sarge's Deli
A latke-lover's Xanadu. Dense, huge, cut with bits of carrot and onion, and
fried in enough oil to last eight days, they're less potato pancake than
gastronomic landmass. Three make a very substantial meal.
548 Third Avenue, near 36th Street
212-679-0442; $2.50 each.
From the December 02, 2002 issue of New York Magazine
Sarge's Deli
Murray Hill/East 30s
548 Third Ave.(bet. 36th & 37th Sts.) New York, NY, 10016 (212)
679-0442
A true NY Jewish deli... this 24/7 Murray Hill "time warp" is the place for "obscenely huge sandwiches" and other classics "served up "efficiently"; the "wisecracking waitresses" are as timeworn as the decor but "where else can you go" at 3 AM?
Holidays are here for reflecting and eating
The Jewish Holidays are coming next week. It's a time for reflection and healing. Eating, too, Even if you're not Jewish, the New Year's holiday food should be savored and enjoyed. It's a great way to participate in a worldwide fellowship of food. It's hard to be intolerant while you're eating a bagel,. Let's Eat Out.Sarge's Delicatessen dishes up Jewish-style soul food that truly nourishes the spirit as well as the body. Sarge's has been working its magic 24 hour a day for nearly 34 years. It's a place to shoot the breeze and nosh the kreplach.
Start with a bowl of old fashioned chicken soup with matzo ball, borscht with sour cream, fried kreplach with onions, chopped herring or a sampler of stuffed derma, kreplach and potato pancake. For your entree, try such traditional dishes as pot roast with kasha varnishkas and vegetables, sweet and sour stuffed cabbage, boiled beef in the pot with matzo ball and chicken fricassee over rice or noodles.
Sarge's is well-known for its bagel and smoked fish platters. Try the nova special with two bagels, Nova Scotia salmon, cream cheese, lettuce, tomato and Bermuda onion: lake sturgeon on a bagel with cream cheese or smoked whitefish on a bagel with cream cheese.
Homemade dairy specialties include cheese or potato blintzes with sour cream, potato pancakes with sour cream or apple sauce, noodle kugel, and broiled or fried potato pirogen with fried onions and sour cream.
For dessert, sample the lemon meringue pie, homemade cheese cake, strawberry shortcake, or their specialty, Mississippi Mud Cake.
Sarge's 548 Third Ave. (bet. 36th and 37th Sts), Murray Hill, Manhattan 212-679-0442. Catering. 24 hour delivery.
SARGE'S (548 Third Avenue, near 36th Street; 679-0442) is underrated, especially its outsize bowls of chicken soup with huge kreplach. Surprisingly good burgers too. The real draw of Sarge's though, is that it's open 24/7 - and delivers. 'They were there for me when I was writing my book." says Arthur Schwartz fondly. 'I gained a lot of weight.'
CitySmarts food
Arthur's Faves....
Sarge's Deli
24-Hour Manhattan Delivery
Come home late and need a pastrami fix? Some really good, fatty, spicy pastrami on rye? Or a crisp skinned roast chicken (okay, a little steamy inside) with mashed potatoes - terrible, wonderful, gloppy brown gravy on the side? A tuna sandwich or salad platter? A sandwich high with whitefish salad? Bagels and lox (ask for extra onion)? I know - sometimes everyone, in the middle of the night, needs a piece of double -chocolate sin cake, or whatever they call it.
